Chicama, Peru
Chicama is an unrivalled natural phenomenon, a marvel of the surfing world. On decent swells there are over 4kms of sand and rock bottom point stacked with line after line of never sectioning, almost unearthly glory. Just to stand on the headland and witness such a sight has been known to make surfers go weak at the knees.
Chicama is a series of left hand point breaks in the harsh dessert landscape of northern Peru. The outside bay Malpaso breaks the most and is generally bigger, but not always better. On an average to good day Malpaso will deliver surfers just short of the next section. But the main event is the next section down, from El Point, down to El Hombre, where rides over a kilometre are possible if your legs are up to it.
Chicama is not a hard wave to surf. Generating speed is required to scoot down the line with the occasional lip bash through the fast sections, then it slows up allowing a cut back or two, before taking off again. A Chicama lip curls and feathers but is not a top to bottom barrel. The El Hombre section is the best chance to see the inside of this wave.
Rides over 2km have been recorded but most surfers aim for 3-5 long rides and instead of paddling back use the current to sweep them down the point and into position for the next section, then get out and make the half hour walk back along the sand.
In recent years surf camp operators have been offering boats or jet skis to ferry their clients back to the take-off. This increases certain surfer’s wave count but creates a clear divide between gringos and locals.
The weather in the north of Peru is spring-like year round and not too hot or cold, but the water is cold due to ocean currents. Wetsuits are generally worn. The winds at Chicama are almost constantly offshore and sometimes too strong, sand blasting surfers out to sea. Chicama needs solid south swell to wrap around the headland and wave height will generally be half of whatever the ocean swell size. It breaks on all tides and the best time of year to visit is between April and September.
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